Friday, October 14, 2011

Method of sewing A line frock and Reversible A line frock

Prepare the draft of A line frock

A-B =length + ⅟₂”
A-C =⅟₄ chest +⅟₂”
Draw  perpendicular lines from the points A,C and B. Mark  point D on the  perpendicular line drawn from  A such that A-D =⅟₂ shoulder +⅟₄”
Mark point E on the perpendicular line drawn from the point C such that C-E =⅟₄ chest +1⅟₂”
On the perpendicular drawn from the point B mark Point J such that B-J = C-E + 2”
A-D =C-K. Join D-K.
On the line D-K mark point L such that D-L =⅟₂”
Join the points E-J. On this line Mark point I such that I-J =⅟₂”.
Join band I by a curved line as shown.
A-F = neck width=⅟₁₂ th chest +¼”
A-H = front neck depth ==⅟₁₂ th chest + ⅟₂”
A-G = back neck depth 1”
Join G-F and H-F as shown.
K-M =1”
Shape back scye L-E and front scye D-M-E as shown
Cut along the shape G-F-L-E-I-B.
Cut along the line G-B. Keep one piece aside. This is back draft.
Take the other piece and cut along the curves F-H and L-M-E. This is the front draft.
This is the draft of A line frock.
Reversible A line frock
Prepare the draft of A line frock.
We have to make some changes in the draft of the back for reversible A line frock 
Take the back draft and add an extension X-Y-Z of height 3” as shown in the figure. This can be done by cutting a separate shape and pasting it along the shoulder line.

Method of cutting fabric for  reversible A line frock
Select two fabric pieces with different designs.Call them Fabric type 1 and fabric type 2

Place the draft prepared on folded pieces of fabric and cut the pattern pieces of each type of fabric as shown in the layout.

Pattern pieces

Pattern pieces
Stitch reversible frock as explained in the following images.