Friday, October 15, 2010

Nehru shirt

 This type of shirt is usually worn with dothi  or  Pyjama.Neck is finished with stand collar or bound hem.We can call this kurtha with out kali.Looks grand with embroidery


neck round

Body front and back

A-B= full length +1”
A-C=¼ chest
A-D = waist length
Draw perpendiculars from A, C, D and B
A-E =½ shoulder +¼”
C-H =¼ chest +2”. For boys add 1½”
C-G =A-E-¼”
E-F =1¼”
G-P=1” Shape armhole of scye H-P-F of body front.
P-J =1” Shape armhole of scye H-J-F of body back.
D-I is C-H -½”
B-L =C-H +2”
Shape side seam H-I-K
Shape bottom curve B-K.
A-N=1/6th neck. A-O =¾”, Shape back neck curve N-O
A-M =1/6th neck + ¼”. Shape front neck curve N-M
Q-K is side slit =1/4 th of A-B +1"


A-I =Sleeve length +½”.
C-A =1/12th chest +½”. Draw perpendicular from C to the line A-I.
C-D =¼ chest less ½”
Join A-D. F is it’s midpoint. H is the midpoint of F-D
H-I =¾” and F-J =¾”. Shape back curve A-J-D and front curve A-F-D
E-I =1/6th chest .Join E-I and D-E.

 Stand Collar

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is midpoint.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2


Thursday, October 14, 2010

Method of drafting pyjama

This pyjama can be used as an indoor garment or as an outdoor garment with Kurtha. If it is worn with Kurtha, leg round is reduced..It can be stitched with fly or without fly.It is prepared with a casing at the waist to pass draw string




A-B=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A-C= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A-C, 1” below the midpoint of A-C.
A-H =B-I. Join H-I
Mark J such that B-J =¼ seat + 1¼”.
A-C =B-D. Join C-D
From J drop J-L perpendicular to C-D. This line intersects the line H-I at the point Q.
Mark point K, ½” below Q.
Join C-K with a deep inward curve as shown.
Mark point R such that R-J = 1¼”
Drop perpendicular from R .It meets the line H-I at the point S.
Mark point M such that S-M = 1”. Shape M-K with upward curve.
G-F= ½ leg round .Join C-F


A’-B’=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A’-C’= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A’-C’, 1” below the midpoint of A’-C’.
A’-H’ =B’-I’. Join H’-I’
A’-C ‘=B’-D’ Join C’-D’
From B’ measure B’-O =¼ seat-1½”
From O drop a perpendicular to C-’D’. This line meets I’-H’ at N. Produce N-O to P such that O-P = 1½”
Join B’-P as shown in the figure..
Mark T on the line I’-H’ such that N-T =1½”
Produce D’-C’ to U such that C-’U =1½”. Join P-T-U as shown.
G’- F’ ½ leg round + ½”
Join U-F’

Right side front fly facing

Using carbon paper trace shape R-J-K-S-M-R on a sheet of paper to get the draft of the fly facing.

Left side front  fly extension

It is prepared in the same way but on a folded sheet of paper keeping J-K on the fold.


Add 1½” on R-j-B- P and tops of fly facing and fly extension for stitching casing..
Add 1½” on F-G-F’ for bottom folding.
Add ½” on all other pattern edges for seams..
If side seam is needed cut front and back of the pyjama separately and add ½” of seam allowance.
If not place the drafts of front and back side by side matching the points BB’, DD” and DD”.