Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Convertible collar

Convertible collar is a pointed collar.It is worn with the neck button either fastened or unfastened.

A-B= ½ neck line of front and back +¼”.
Draw perpendiculars from A and B.
A-C =collar width=3½” or to taste.
A-C = B-D.
Mark H on B-D such that B-H =¾”
Produce C-D to E such that D-E =1 ¼”
Join H-E and produce to F such that E-F = ½”
G is midpoint of A-B.
Shape curve G-B and curve C-F as shown in the figure.


Plain open collar

Join front and back bodice at the shoulder. Measure the neck line.
A-B = half the neckline measure. Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-C =3½” or to taste.
B-D = A-C. Join C-D.
G is midpoint of A-B
B-E = about ¾”
F-D = about ¾”
Join F-E
Draw the curve A-G-E


Rolled Peter Pan collar

This collar is made-up of a single piece. It is turned down with a rolled effect at the neck line.
Join Front and back bodice at shoulder line
Measure the neckline of front and back.
A-B = ½ neck line +¼”
Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-C = collar width=2½”
A-C = B-D
D-F =¾”
B-E =1½”
Join E-F
Shape A-B-F and C-F as shown


Various types of flat Peter Pan collar


Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Method of sewing flat Peter Pan collar

Step 1

Place the shoulder lines of front and back of the bodice draft together on a sheet or paper as shown in the figure. Let Points at E coincide and points at F overlap by 1/2” .
Step 2
Trace the neck line A- E-C. Remove the Front and back draft. Draw another line A’ E’ And C’, 2” away from the neck line and parallel to the neck line A-E-C and give shape as shown in the figure.
Step 3

Add ½” seam all around and cut the draft of the collar.


Simple and easy to follow Tutorial is here which explains the method of attaching peter pan collar


Monday, May 17, 2010

Method of cutting chudidar by preparing a bias bag (method 2)

Turn the bag in such a way seams do not fall on the portion below the knee.

Draft    is placed on the bias bag as shown in the figure and pattern pieces are cut.

The green dotted line is the stitching line on the bag,behind the draft

Practice preparing the bias bag with some waste material and then do the actual one.


Chudidar pyjama Method 1

Cudidar pyjama is a pyjama with fullness at the top and tightly fitted below the knee level. Length of the pyjama will be more than the actual length .There will be gathers below the calf.Chudidar goes well with Anarkali top.

Chudidar is cutting is done on bias .It can be done in two ways.
Method 1.By keeping the draft on the material in bias
Method 2. By preparing a bias bag.


1.Full length
3.Knee round
4.Bottom round

Instruction for drafting

A-D =full length
D –E = for gathers =3 to 5” or to taste
E-F =I” for folding.
A-G =1⅛” for casing
A-B = 1/3 seat + 1”
C is the midpoint of B-D.
Draw perpendiculars from the points G, A, B, C, D, E and F
G-H= 1/3 seat+ 2”to 4” as per wish
G-H = A-I = B-K.
K-R =1½” to 2”
R-L =1½”
J is the midpoint of I-K
Shape the front curve H- I-J-R and back curve (red curved line) H- I- L as shown in the figure.
C-M =half of knee round + ½”
N-E =half of bottom round +½”
R-N =4” to 6” for opening
Join the curve R-M-N-O and L-M-N-O as shown on the figure
Red line is back shape of the chudidar

Method 1.

In this method draft is placed on the material in bias. See layout 1. Plenty of material gets wasted in this method .If the width of the material is not enough divide the draft in to 2 pieces by cutting on the dotted line P-Q ,marking point Q along the line G-F such that A-Q = 1/6th of seat + 1"and P-Q is perpendicular to A-Q. Unfold the draft .Cut the upper part on straight grain and the lower part on true bias. Add ½” seam allowance at each side along the line P-Q. in the draft. Later on stitch the two pieces together and proceed.