Monday, February 23, 2015

Kimono sleeve nightgown with round yoke


Here are a few images which show the method of preparing the draft of kimono sleeve night gown with round yoke.


Prepare the draft of nightgown with kimono sleeve

Kimono sleeve nightgown draft
Draw lines as shown in figure 2

Figure 2


Separate round yoke from the skirt portion.

Figure 3


Place the skirt portion on another sheet of paper and spread as shown and draw the shape as shown by dotted line in figure 4

Figure 4
.

Cut on the dotted line and remove the new draft.

New draft


While cutting the fabric 1/2" extra is added along the curved edge  A-B of the yoke and curved edge of the skirt A'-B'.This is for seams.Same draft is used for the back skirt portion

Stitching

Gather the skirt portion and stitch to the yoke.The rest of the procedure is same as that of kimono sleeve nightgown.Stitch a belt of contrast colour and secure it to the middle  near the waist line at the back.

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Sunday, February 22, 2015

Kimono sleeve nightgown with flare



Prepare the draft of the kimono sleeve nightgown as explained HERE.



The portion of the draft which is above the line C-J is body and the portion which is below the line C-J is skirt portion.
Divide the skirt portion in to three portions by drawing lines P-Q and R-S.( Figure 1).
Cut the skirt portion along the lines in the direction Q-P and S-R till the points P and R and do not separate. (Figure 2)
Cut along the line C-J and separate skit portion from the body portion.( Figure 3)
Spread the skirt portion as shown in the figure 4 on another sheet of paper and secure them with pins.
If you want more flare you can spread them more.

Figure 4


Draw out line of the shape thus formed as shown by dotted lines. Cut the shape out. This is the new flared skirt portion. Figure 5.

Figure 5

Same  draft is used for the back skirt portion of the nightgown.
Body portion is different.While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" is added along the lines C-J of the body as well as  to the top portion of the skirt .This is for seams.


Attach skirt body and proceed as explained HERE.
Stitch a belt of contrast colour and secure it to the middle  near the waist line at the back.
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Saturday, February 21, 2015

Method of sewing nightgown with Kimono sleeve





Measurements

Full length
Chest

Method of drawing draft
Figure 1 Draft

Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper.
Mark point A on the fold
On this line mark C such that A-C = ⅟₄ chest + 2”
A-B = full length + 1”( from shoulder line to hem)
Draw perpendicular lines from points A, C and B.
On the perpendicular line at A, mark points D and G such that A-D = A-C and D-G =4”.
On the perpendicular line at C, mark points E and H such that A-D =C-E and D-G =E-H.
On the perpendicular line at B Mark point F such that B-F =A-D. Produce Line B-F to O such that F-O=5”.
Join points D-E-F and G-H.
On the line E-H mark point J such that E-J = 1½”.
On the line E-F Mark point I such that E-I = 1½”.
On the line G-H mark K such that H-K= 1”.
Join I-O.
Mark P on the I-P such that P-O =1”.
Join F-P by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Join I-J-K by a curved line as shown in the figure.
On the line A-D Mark L such that A-L =⅛ chest
On the line A-B mark N such that A-N = 3” or to taste. Shape front neck by curve L-N.
On the line A-B mark point M such that A-M = 2”.Shape back neck by curve L-M.
Cut along the line G-K-J-I-P-F-B.
Cut back neck shape by cutting along the curve L-M.
Separate front and back of the draft by cutting along the line M-N-C-B.
Keep one portion which has got no markings aside. This is back draft. On the other portion the draft cut front neck shape L-N. This is the draft of the front.

Figure 2 Draft pieces

Cut draft of neck facing as shown in figure 3.I have explained HERE in detail.

Figure 3

Layout

Use the draft s thus prepared and cut pattern pieces from the fabric.(figure 4)

Figure 4


Figure 5 Pattern pieces
Stitching

Stitch the sleeve edges by folding ½” in side
Stitch neck with fitted facing as explained HERE.
Stitch sides
Stitch bottom by folding ½” inside.
You can decorate neck with embroidery.
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