Friday, October 9, 2009
Draw a perpendicular line from the point I to the line A-D.On this line mark point M such that it is just below the mid point of H-C
I-U is the waist length.U-V is 1½" wide..size of the pocket is decided according to the size of the dress and taste.
Draw lines on the Simple pinafore draft as shown in the figure (pink dotted lines).Please refer here
Bib -Cut along U-N-M-I (-IU on fold) ---2 pieces
Waist band- Cut along U-’N’-O-V (U-’V ‘on fold width U-’V’ being double the width U-V in the skirt)—2 pieces
Back skirt - Cut along V-O-H-B (V-B on fold)
Front skirt – Cut along V-T-P-H-B (V-B on fold)
Pocket layer 1 - Cut along S-T-O-P-Q-R--S
Pocket layer 2- Cut along S-T-P-Q-R-S
See the different parts in the figure.
While cutting on the material leave ½” all around except for the sides for seams
Skirt front -Keep pocket layer 2 on skirt front, right sides together along the curve T-P .clip at 2 or 3 places .turn the pocket layer inside and press.
Keep and pin the skirt front on the right side of the pocket layer 1 such that points T-S-R-Q-P Match (consider all the three layers-Skirt front, pocket layer1 and pocket layer 2).Stitch pocket layer1 to pocket layer 2 along the line S-R-Q Baste the pocket to the skirt along the line S-T and P-Q.Other side of the pocket is also stitched in the same manner.
Stitch the Waist band along V-O to the skirt front keeping wrong side of the skirt and the right side of the band together. Press .Fold ½” along the line U-’N’ and again fold to the front and stitch to the right side of skirt along the line VT. Waist band is attached to the skirt back in the same manner.
Bias bind arm hole and neck line .Attach bib to the waist band keeping the waist band ½” above the line UN of the bib
Stitch the sides of the skirt together
Shoulder straps –Fold ½” and stitch along the length of the shoulder strap. Attach them to the front and back of the bib.Stitch the bottom hem by folding 1". Finally top stitch .
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Method of drafting
A-B = length of the dress + 1” + 1/2 “
A-D -= I /4 chest+ 1/2”
Draw perpendiculars from A, D and B and mark the points C, E and F as follows:-
A-C = shoulder width + ½ “
D-E=1/4 chest +1” + ½”
B-F = D_E + 2”
A-C =D-L .Mark point G on C-L such that C-G = ½” Join H-G
Join E-F. Mark H such that H-F =1”
A-H = 1/12 chest + ¼”. A-I = 1/12 chest + ½”
Shape back neck K-H, Front neck I-H.Shape scye C-G-E. Shape bottom .B-H
If the cloth is wide enough button stands can be cut along with the back as shown. Otherwise separate pieces are joined.
Join left and right of the back pieces till the button stands. (Shown by dotted line)
Stitch right and left button stands .Join shoulders .Stitch neck and armholes with matching piping. Stitch
sides. Finally fold bottom by 1” and hem.